Costume
Adventures

Florentine Inspirations

c. 1460-1470



Inspirational art from 1460-1470 by Piero della Francesca and Cosme Tura



Cotta

Red, linen cotta worn over cotton camicia.

This dress is made from heavy linen and the bodice is lined with linen. The bodice laces up the front with black ribbon passing through metal rings in the spiral-lacing pattern. The sleeves, which are set in, are fitted from just above the elbow to the wrist and open from elbow to wrist. There are closures along the opening of the sleeve slit although it’s worn here with only ones at the wrist being used. The skirt is assembled from trapezoid cuts and has deep pleats at the waist.

The camicia is white cotton gathered into a square neckline. Linen is always my first choice for a camicia, but it's sometimes difficult to find one that is light enough and affordable enough to merit the expense. I take into consideration the type of event I'm going to wear it at; camping versus indoor. I also take into account whether I'm expecting it to be hot and humid or temperate; silk is very uncomfortable in heat and humidity. For this reason I have a variety of camicia in cotton, linen and silk and I wear which ever seems appropriate at the time.

Personally, I love this dress. It's stood up to a lot of wear and I’ve cut it down from the equivalent of a dress size 14 to size 8/10. It's comfortable, it's supportive, and it hangs well.

Cotta first worn to Erinwood Tourney I, September 2005. Photos by Leisa Henry, 2009.


Cotta and Gamurra

White cotton camicia, yellow linen cotta, and teal gamurra.

This is an example of "summer" wear suited to the height of summer heat. The lady is wearing layers of light garments that breath instead of heavy layers or silk. A light weight wool would have been equally suitable and just as comfortable if left unlined. This ensemble made for and worn at West Kingdom Arts and Sciences Tourney, July 2006. Photos by Denise Robello, September, 2006.

Farsetto

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Male ensemble

Blue, linen farsetto; green, wool robe (not shown); brown, linen hose; white linen shirt. Made July, 2005. Photos, D. Robello, September, 2005. Worn at first annual Erinwood tourney. Made as a gift for the model, my brother. My brother submitted to being draped and fitted just so that I could make him something for the event. He requested that the farsetto be a bit long and since he's the one wearing it, I complied. In period the waist would have been higher.


Farsetto "Girls in Drag"

Girls in Drag

One of my best friends and long-time sewing cohorts and I cross-dressed as Italian youths for an SCA camping event. We are wearing linen farsettos over linen shirts and linen hose. My farsetto is a wine-colored linen lined in bright red linen and innerlined in med-weight wool flannel. You can see the lining where I've rolled up my sleeves. My farsetto is longer than the period versions, but (speaking for myself) I didn't wish to have my big butt hanging out. I made both black and lavendar hose for this ensemble, which attach to the farsetto with points. I am modelling the alternate lavendar hose in a back-yard shot.

My high-collar wilted in the heat, which was 90F in the shade by 10 am. I ended up shedding my farsetto by noon, lounging in the shade with a cool drink, feet up and playing cards. I found myself reflecting on how good men have it when it comes to period dress and the minimal clothes they wear for decorum.

Made in July, 2005 (D. Robello, left) and in July 2006.(L. Henry, right). Each modeling their own creations.